Jiu Hu Char (Stir-Fried Jicama with Dried Cuttlefish)

This Chinese New Year, I had the privilege of learning how to make jiu hu char, a beloved Nyonya dish, from my mum.

For those unfamiliar, it’s a stir-fry of jicama (or bangkuang) and dried cuttlefish. Typically enjoyed as a side dish with rice or wrapped in crisp lettuce leaves, it embodies the essence of Peranakan cooking. Simple yet deeply flavourful, with a balance of textures and tastes that make it unforgettable.

As usual, my mum made it sound effortless.

“Very simple only!” she said, as she manually sliced the jicama into fine, uniform strips.

But when I tried to recreate the dish back in Penang, I quickly realized just how much skill and intuition goes into making a truly great jiu hu char. From handling the unwieldy jicama to achieving the perfect balance of flavours, every step required patience and precision.

Very few ingredients, but each one plays a role

What struck me most, though, was how this dish reflects the philosophy of classical Chinese cooking: using minimal ingredients to create maximum flavour. Mum’s version is a testament to that.

My mother’s version of jiu hu char has very few ingredients but each one plays an integral role.

Jicama (Bangkuang): The star of the dish provides a crisp, slightly sweet base. Its natural juices are key to creating the dish’s light gravy, and its texture contrasts beautifully with the other ingredients.

Dried cuttlefish: Jiu hu (in Hokkien) adds a deep, umami richness to the dish.These days, you can find it in the form of machine-cut floss at the wet markets, making it ideal for busy modern cooks. Dried cuttlefish is hard and not easy to slice manually, according to mum.

Carrots: While not the main focus, carrots add a touch of colour and sweetness that complements the dish.

Prawns: In my mum’s version, prawns replace the traditional pork lard, lending a natural sweetness and a touch of luxury to the dish. They also add a subtle seafood brininess that pairs beautifully with the cuttlefish.

Shitake mushrooms: Presoaked and finely sliced, these mushrooms add an earthy depth and a meaty texture that rounds out the dish.

Garlic: Provides a fragrant base that ties everything together.

Salt: The only seasoning used in this recipe, salt enhances the natural flavours of the ingredients without overpowering them.

To serve, pair the jiu hu char with crisp lettuce leaves for wrapping and a sprinkle of fried shallots for added crunch and aroma. A side of sambal belacan (spicy shrimp paste) is the perfect accompaniment.

No water added!

According to my Peranakan friends, the best versions of this dish don’t rely on added water. Instead, the natural juices from the jicama and carrots create a light, flavourful gravy that ties everything together. True to form, my mum didn’t add a drop of water.

Jiu hu char is more than just a dish: it’s a connection to my heritage, a lesson in culinary artistry, and a reminder of the love and resilience that defines my mum.

If you loved this Nyonya dish, give my kerabu beehoon a try.